Thursday, December 16, 2010

Saying Goodbye

Well folks, I'm not a Peace Corps Volunteer anymore as of tomorrow. Moving out of village was really difficult, even if I'm ready to move on with my life. The whole week was full of people just talking about how I was leaving... It made conversation a bit difficult. I went around to everyone's compound to say goodbye, and a few old ladies just burst into tears when I told them. It was nice in a way, to feel loved, but goodbyes are really not fun and a whole week that is only goodbye is rough.

The night before I left all the groups I'd been working with came to my house and gave speeches about me and gave me presents. I've never had so many African clothes in my life! I felt like they all really appreciated having me around these past two years. It was a nice way to wrap things up and see everyone I wanted to see one last time. Mom and Dad, you weren't forgotten in the gift giving frenzy. I've got plenty of goodies for you too.

And then, in the morning, a few of my friends came over to wait for the car (which Peace Corps forgot to send, ahem...). When it arrived, it was sudden and tons of people came out of nowhere into my compound, whisked all my things into the truck in about 2 minutes, and then I was ready to go. And I cried. And other people cried.

In Gambia, you always shake hands with your right hand. The left hand is for things of a more personal nature... But for a final goodbye, you shake with the left. I guess it's to guarantee that you'll see each other again when you come back to fix the mistake. This goodbye was rough, knowing that there's a chance that I'll be back here, but no guarantee.

Here are some things I'm going to miss about The Gambia:

- How friendly everyone is. Okay, sometimes it's to the point of obnoxiousness, but usually it's great to feel so genuinely welcomed.
- Special priveleges. Reverse racism is a nice thing when you can cut the line and always get a chair.
- Being told I'm beautiful one zillion times a day. I'm also NOT going to miss this since it usually comes from guys I really don't want to talk to, but I've never felt more confident than I do here. No body issues in this country.
- Bright colors. Clothing, sky, rice fields
- Really appreciating a cold drink. REALLY.
- Friends, coworkers & my second family and Jatta Kunda. The people here have been truly amazing and I hope they can continue to work toward the greater good.

Okay, there's lots of stuff I'm goign to miss honestly. I can't possibly name it all. Freedom to work or not work, swimming pools, the beach any time... Come on! I'm looking forward to the luxuries of the first world and the challenges of school and work, but I'm leaving a lot behind here.

Fo Silo Kotenke
(Until Another Journey)

Friday, November 26, 2010

Description of Service

I'm winding down my time here, and one of our assignments is to write a description of service. Just to give you an idea of how I've been spending my time (at least in terms of work), I'm going to post it here.

On January 14, 2009, Ms. Downs was sworn in as a United States Peace Corps Volunteer in the Environment and Natural Resource Management sector. She was placed in the rural village of Kafuta, a Mandinka community with 5,000 residents located in Kombo East, Western Region. There she worked with local residents to plan and develop sustainable projects and meet the need for educated extension workers, as well as managing larger projects regionally and nationally. Ms. Downs served as National Coordinator for the Gambia All Schools Tree Nursery Competition (GASTNC), worked with the Kombo-Foni Forestry Association (KOMFFORA) on regional forestry projects and organizational management skills, and facilitated the formation and management of a local cashew growers cooperative. She also worked with numerous individuals on grassroots development efforts, with projects ranging from malaria prevention methods to water and sanitation projects to computer literacy.

Ms. Downs’ primary achievements as an Environment and Natural Resource Management (ENRM) volunteer were as follows:

Collaborated with government officials on the National Coordinating committee for GASTNC, a joint effort with the Department of Education and the Department of Forestry that oversaw the planting of 10,000 trees by 260 schools each year.

Facilitated the transfer of responsibility for GASTNC funding from Peace Corps to the Department of Education, making the project sustainable without the necessity of donor funds.

Updated and revised manual for schools participating in GASTNC, including guidelines on nursery management, environmental education techniques, out-planting methods, and tree-specific information, disseminated to schools nation-wide.

Managed multi-agency GASTNC judging treks for Western Region and Kombo Municipal District. Kept records of nursery and out-planting results for participating schools, advised garden masters on environmental education techniques and nursery management methods, and awarded prizes.

Developed publicity campaign for GASTNC, including spots on local TV station, panel discussions, fliers for schools, and prize ceremonies in two regions covered by television, radio, and newspapers.

Launched One Man, One Tree, a regional tree planting campaign with KOMFFORA that facilitated the planting of 45,000 trees per year in community forests of Western Region communities.

Developed a five year action plan and budget for KOMFFORA. Reinforced grant-writing techniques and advised in project design and management. Provided capacity building training for KOMFFORA executive committee members.

Conducted regional mangrove rehabilitation project, a joint effort of KOMFFORA and World Wildlife Fund (WWF), resulting in the planting of 38,000 mangroves over 15 hectares in five villages.

Ms. Downs' secondary projects as an ENRM volunteer were as follows:

Guided 60 local cashew farmers in the formation of the Jarisu Cashew Farmers Association, through which 10 tons of raw cashew were sold cooperatively. Advised farmers on constitution writing, marketing techniques, and record-keeping.

Conducted local-language trainings for cashew farmers using Farmer Field School technique promoted by International Relief and Development (IRD). Trainings focused on best practices for orchard management, business and entrepreneurial skills, and post-harvest best practices.

Nursed and out-planted 200 mahogany seedlings in community forest.

Instructed 40 forestry students in environmental education techniques. Facilitated 3 environmental education lessons led by forestry students for 100 Lower Basic School students.

Introduced 40 forestry students to basic seed preparation and nursery management techniques.

Trained Lower Basic School staff members in grant writing and project management techniques. Received funds through the United States Embassy Self Help Fund to improve school structures, and Friends of Gambian Schools funding to re-construct a garden wall. Worked with school officials and students to set up a school garden.

Supervised a Water and Sanitation project to improve water facilities at the Upper Basic School, made possible by a Small Project Assistance grant. Project included installation of solar-powered pump and three taps.

Conducted informal pest management and soil improvement talks with 60 women in 4 community gardens, leading to the adoption of simple local practices that increased garden yields.


Ms. Downs also extended her volunteer service to work within the education and health and community development sectors:

· Instructed 50 villagers in malaria prevention methods, including preparation of natural mosquito repellant. Advised three individuals in successful small enterprise development projects based on mosquito repellant production and sale.

· Conducted after school tutoring sessions in general science, math, and test taking strategies for 50 Upper Basic School students.

· Developed curriculum for and instructed one year computer literacy class for 100 high school students. Adapted curriculum, taught, and trained instructor for computer literacy courses at local skills center. Resulted in 50 students certificated in basic computer skills.


Leadership and training roles within Peace Corps:

Planned and implemented eight hours of environmental education training for 15 Peace Corps volunteers. Sessions included appropriate teaching topics for youth and adults, teaching strategies, and adapting lessons to local audiences.

Trained 30 Peace Corps volunteers in basic tree nursery management and local gardening techniques.

Selected as member of Volunteer Support Network, serving as a confidential resource for volunteers in need of mental health support. Trained in conflict resolution and listening skills.

As a Peace Corps Volunteer, Ms. Downs' personal achievements include the following:

· Attained conversational proficiency in Mandinka and scored Advanced-Mid on the Language Proficiency Interview Exam.

· Integrated fully into a rural, non-English speaking community, building close relationships with people of varying levels of formal education.

· Lived in modest conditions with no electricity or running water for two years, becoming a productive member of the community and adapting to life and work in an African village.

Monday, October 18, 2010

Adventures in River Reforestation


First off, sorry for the long, long delay in posting. It's just been hectic, and posting a blog takes some dedicated time, even short ones like mine.

Lately, I've been working with the community forestry association on a mangrove reforestation project in Western Region. It's been fun, exhausting... the usual in The Gambia. But mostly it's been exciting for me to see the association finally able to take on a project with full funding support, so they can really make some effective progress and not have to worry about the usual hassles of no money to buy lunch, no money to buy phone credit, no money to pay transport. Suddenly, here we are with plenty of funding thanks to the WWF and boy are we working it. In two weeks, we planted more than 37,000 mangroves over 15 hectares in 5 villages. Here's how it works:

Our first job is to go collect little mangrove seedlings. If you've never seen a mangrove seedling before, it's pretty cool and unusual. Most trees make seeds that fall to the ground and a little tree germinates and grows. Mangroves have flowers that send out shoots that get longer and longer until they eventually touch the ground and become a root. And a new tree is born. So our job is to go to an area with lots of mangroves that are producing seedlings, and snap off the seedlings to take somewhere else.

A group of about 13 of us went to the mighty River Gambia and took a boat out to collect as many seedlings as we could. We had several strategies. The first was to get out of the boat at low tide and wade around in the mud to collect the seedlings from the trees. Major drawback to this strategy: really sharp oyster shells embedded in the mud! And the inability to keep your shoes on since the mud is so soft. After about an hour of wading gingerly around, I had had enough and decided I would keep my feet in the boat.

Some of the men decided to climb up in the mangroves to collect all the seedlings growing at the top. This worked really well, although none of us ladies were brave enough to make the climb. Instead, we decided on division of labor. One set of motivated dudes stayed up in the trees while another set held the rice bags to collect all the seedlings. Then the seedlings were brought back to the boat where the ladies popped the tops off and stored them carefully for transport. Not a bad system, and my feet didn't hurt.

At high tide we were able to all stay in the boat, since we could get it closer to the mangroves. This was nice, although moving the boat around was funny. We just grabbed some mangrove branches and pulled in order to shimmy the boat left of right.

After a day of collecting, we had about 9 rice bags of mangroves. We collected for two full days in order to have enough seedlings to plant in 5 villages. These days were long and hot, but since we were on teh river I took the opportunity to go for a swim. Some of the girls joined me. Luckily the great River Gambia is not too deep, because most of the people on the boat couldn't swim.

Mangrove plantings were fairly quick, although sometimes the days were long because the river is tidal and we didn't always predict accurately when the tide would be in. So there were a few villages where we sat around for most of the day waiting for the tide to go back out so we could plant our trees. Then it was all about organizing the crowd so we could make straight lines and have accurate spacing. More complicated than it sounds... Techniques we used included using a tape measure, having boys hold hands and walk in "straight" lines, having a set of people in charge of dragging their feet to draw squares while other people followed along planting behind them.

Predictably, there was chaos. But all in all it was a really positive project and generated some great publicity about mangrove planting. I was interviewed for the radio 4 times (once in Mandinka, eek!), and on the last day of planting lots of important government officials showed up to get some face time. Lesson learned: with a little bit of support (okay, let me not be vague: MONEY!), doing large scale projects can be simple and effective. In two weeks, we planted 37,000 mangroves! What's not to like?

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

When it rains, it pours.

We've had some major rain storms here in The Gambia during the past week. After hearing about all the floods all over the world, it makes me pretty nervous. My road has always had some pretty poor drainage, made worse by the improvement of the South Bank road that runs through my village. In an "effort" to stem these drainage problems, the commercial farm in my village sent out a bulldozer to do this to my road:



Hmmm... an impassable awkward pile of dirt. Yes, this will surely stem the flooding/standing water issues on this road. The theory was put to the test this week when we had some of the biggest storms I've experienced since I've lived here. Houses fell down, compounds were flooded, and my road turned into a river... When that river reached the dam of mud, we got a lake!

This is my backyard. All that brown is water. I have a step down from my house about 6 or 8 inches high. The water was creeping over it just when the rain let up. Thank you, rain god, for stopping just in the nick of time. The other houses in my compound weren't so lucky. We had flooding, but luckily my host fathers built sturdy houses so nothing crashed.


This is the inside of my compound. That's a lot of water... This didn't happen last year. True, the rains were heavier, but I'm going to blame this issue on questionable water management techniques. The boys in my compound spent the whole night bailing out their houses, and all of the next day the neighborhood was working on the road. All this while fasting for Ramadan! Life... it's not easy.

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Vacation in The USA

Well, I'm back from an almost-month-long trip to the good ol' USA. Here's a little recap of my whirlwind cross-country adventures:

Firstly: Four short days in California filled with eating, drinking, eating, drinking, and hanging out. Saw some faces I missed, went to my lovely, funny, soccer-mom filled gym, and got used to being back in the States.



Mexican food and IPA. Welcome back, Me!


These girls make California the great state it is.

Then, over to DC to check out my boyfriend on his home turf. We ate extremely large pizza slices, rode around in a convertible, and explored our nation's capitol. I remembered more things that are great about America: sushi, air conditioning, free museums (wait, actually, just MUSEUMS!), large open public spaces.




A short but sweet weekend, then back to California. My carbon-footprint has skyrocketed... Back at home, I made sure to soak up the best California has to offer. Went to a Giants game with the family. Sadly, I guess I am not their lucky charm.


Went to Davis to see my sister and all the scholarly things she has been up to. Being gone two years you really get to be out of touch. Now I'm caught up on tomato genetics and the food choices of Davis, California.



Look how grown up and pretty she is!

Then I said my goodbyes to San Francisco. More fun nights and days with friends. Saw my grandma and my mom's knee surgery scars, some days were cold, some were warm... sort of. The whole vacation was great, but the real reason I came home was to go to my college roomate Annie Chang's (well, Brewer now) wedding in Montana. So here I go again, off to another state. This time, the Mountains!

Another fun week followed, full of hiking, swimming, trampoline-ing, flower arranging, hula-hooping, and campfires. Montana was beautiful and full of fun, outdoors-y things to do. And I got to see my girls again!

I can't believe it's been two years since we've been together. We can still have a dance party like nobody's business. And seeing my friend Annie C. get married, well, I wouldn't have missed that for anything, so thanks to everyone who helped get me home. Now, one last push in The Gambia before I wrap up my life as a Peace Corps Volunteer!

Monday, July 5, 2010

A funny thing happened on the way to Albreda: A travel story

Here's just a funny example of travelling in The Gambia. Even when you think you're travelling in style, anything can happen.

This past week I went to a workshop in Albreda to talk about one of my favorite subjects: Cashews! Albreda is a really nice village on the North Bank, with lots of history (it's where Alex Haley traced his Roots). But, like any nice village on the North Bank, you have a heck of a lot of travelling to do to get there since there are no bridges in this country (okay okay, there are two, if I must be accurate). I wasn't too phased by the thought of travelling though, since Jeff was also going with an IRD vehicle and they said I could just go with them.

Around 2pm, I met a very annoyed Jeff with the IRD car. In theory, the car should have gone to the ferry in the morning, since they can fit many people on one ferry, but not so many cars. Usually a car has to wait for at least 2 ferries to come before it can get on, whereas people on their own can just cross right away. So we were supposed to meet the car on the other side, but now we were all going together.

When we got to the ferry, Jeff and I decided to do a little shopping in Banjul and get some snacks. We bought umbrellas and smoothies and headed back to the car. A ferry came, a ferry went... Around 5:30, we decided to stop waiting for the car and cross to the other side. That way we could watch the World Cup game at a video club, relax, and when the car got across we'd all move together.

Well, we crossed. And just as we got to the other side the thunder, lightening, and wind started. It's going to rain. No problem, we'll just head for the video club to watch the game. So we did. It begins to pour while we're in the little dark room, and when the game is over it's still pouring, the car is still not across, and oh, did I mention we left our brand new umbrellas in the car?

By 9pm, there is still no car. Jeff is grumpy from not eating and has managed to lose his sunglasses. I really have to pee. We find a spot where he can get a chicken sandwich, but there are no bathrooms around and I don't really want to leave the protection of the small corrugate iron hangover to go traipsing about in the dark and rain. So I hang in there... Until I can't anymore and find a "hidden" spot to pee. I pray that there will be no lightening. And I also manage to pee all over one leg of my jeans. Great. At least that man who walked by didn't turn his head in my direction.

The car finally arrives around 9:45. We are all very grumpy. Olu, one of Jeff's co-workers, who is running the workshop, grumbles in the car. 9:48.... 9:51.... Ugh. We manage to get lost several times on little dirt roads before we finally make it to Albreda, where everyone has gone to bed early and the lodge has put off their electricity. Better late than never.

World Cupo

As you might have guessed, it has been world cup fever over here in The Gambia, and in all of Africa. I've been trying to keep up with as many games as I can, and it's raised some interesting issues, especially: Electricity! How do you watch the most popular sporting event in the world in a place with no electricity? The Answer: Video Clubs.

When I'm in Fajara, I've watched some games in cushy restaurants, where we can eat chicken or hamburgers and watch on nice TVs while sitting in comfy chairs. The first US game, for example, we all high-tailed it over to the British High Commission, where they have a bar and a swimming pool (no fair!) and did our country proud. Even the US Ambassador came.

In village, it's another story. Since the world cup started, a whole host of video clubs have popped up. With no electricity, this means that someone has to invest in a TV, a satellite, and a generator to power the whole set up. Then they charge the crowd 5 or 10 dalasis each to come watch the game. This means sitting in a hot, crowded room with little air circulation and small hard benches for 2 and a half hours. But it's worth it, and you can't beat the team spirit (unless you're the only person rooting for America, like I was during the Ghana game).



Even when you watch a game in a nice restaurant, you can't be guaranteed the electricity will be on your side. We've had several power outages that have left us on edge for 20 minutes at a time. Or when it rains, the satellite is done for. In those situations you rely on GRTS, the fuzzy local network, and that's also got it's up-sides. Mainly, a scroll bar that you can text in to, in theory, say which team you support. There have been some pretty good times with that, sending each other messages and in general pushing the boundaries of what should probably get aired on TV...

Even though I'm not in South Africa, I have to say watching the World Cup on African soil this year has been pretty special, with lots of African pride.

Disclaimer

The views expressed in this blog in no way reflect the attitudes of the United States Peace Corps.